Clothier Design Source provides much needed Combat Cloth Face Coverings (CCFC) during coronavirus Delta variant resurgence

Clothier Design Source became one of the first certified makers of the CCFC and is ready to help. 

Back in June of 2020 the U.S. Army Combat Capabilities Development Command (DEVCOM) designed and developed Army face coverings based on the guidelines from the Center for Disease Control (CDC) and Department of Defense (DoD) and set out to find an industry partner to manufacture the face coverings. The cloth face coverings, known as the Combat Cloth Face Coverings (CCFC), are intended for Soldiers to wear when social distancing protocols cannot be met. Clothier Design Source, a cut and sew factory in Minnesota answered the call and began manufacturing and rapidly supplying the face coverings to the Army Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES). Since the recent resurgence of the coronavirus, Clothier Design Source is once again gearing up to supply Warfighters with the Combat Cloth Face Coverings. 

Clothier Design Source is a Women Owned Business dedicated to making 100% Made in America soft goods. They have been around since 2006 and have a special focus on functional clothing and accessories. Since 2019, Clothier Design Source has dedicated most of its resources to provide the Army and Airforce with various products through awarded contracts or through AAFES. 

The CCFCs are face coverings that have been developed for uniform use and come in Black, Tan 499, Coyote 498 and Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP). They are especially unique in their durability and designed adjustability. Clothier Design Source realizes there are not enough face coverings available to support the current demand and is currently in production to offer more. 

The CCFCs were assigned a National Stock Numbers (NSN) following Clothier Design Source’s first substantial order in supplying AAFES with an initial order of 190,00 units. An NSN is a unique 13-digit numeric code assigned to products allowing any of the 29 NATO militaries to purchase the Combat Cloth Face Covering on a “military catalogue” basis, significantly simplifying the procurement process. The assignment of an NSN is also relevant to non-NATO customers in that it is considered to signify that the product has achieved a certain level of acceptance by the world's more discerning defense customers. 

To learn more about all the features of the Combat Cloth Face Coverings, they can be found on ClothierDesignSource.com/combat-cloth-face-covering. The NSN numbers are as follows. 

• Class 4: Tan 499 Polyester/Cotton Plain Weave.
  National Stock Number has not been assigned.

• Class 5: Black Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-692-4240

• Class 1: Tan 499 Nylon/ Cotton Ripstop.
  National Stock Number has not been assigned.

• Class 2: Black Nylon/ Cotton Ripstop.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-687-8955

• Class 3: OCP Nylon/ Cotton Ripstop.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-690-6689

• Class 6: OCP Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-687-8956

• Class 8: Coyote 498 Nylon/ Cotton Ripstop.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-690-6692

• Class 9: Coyote 498 Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.
  National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-690-5477

Clothier Design Source Manufacturing Face Covers for the Army and Air Force

Clothier Design Source, LLC (Cage Code:6XKG6) is pleased to announce it is now producing the Army Official Combat Cloth Face Covering (CCFC) for singular ordering in addition to bulk purchasing.

The Army and Air Force had requested a rapid supply of the CCFC's prior to the DLA being able to procure and issue these face coverings.  Allocated funds were provided by the Army and Air Force to AAFES to purchase the CCFC masks and they are now being distributed to Army and Air Force Exchange Stores nationwide for immediate purchase.

The U.S. Army Combat Capabilities Development Command Soldier Center designed and developed Army Face Coverings based on the guidelines from the Center for Disease Control (CDC) and Department of Defense (DoD) to wear cloth face coverings when social distancing protocols could not be met. These rugged yet soft face coverings are washable, form fitting, and double layered with adjustable flex-aluminum nose bridge featuring elastic cord and adjustable barrel locks for securing to the face. The face covering is not regulated by the FDA.

CCFC products have been assigned the following National Stock Numbers (NSN):

Type II Combat Cloth Face Coverings (CCFC):

• Available Now: Class 4 Tan499 Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.

 No National Stock Number Assigned.

• Available Now: Class 5 Black Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.
                        National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-692-4240

• Call for Availability Class 6: OCP Polyester/ Cotton Plain Weave.      

                      National Stock Number (NSN) 8415-01-687-8956

An NSN is a 13-digit numeric code, identifying all the “standardized material items of supply” as they have been recognized by all NATO countries including United States Department of Defense, and allows for any of the 29 NATO militaries to purchase the Combat Cloth Face Covering (CCFC) on a “military catalogue” basis, significantly simplifying the procurement process. The assignment of an NSN is also relevant to non-NATO customers in that it is considered to signify that the product has achieved a certain level of acceptance by the world’s most discerning defense customers, the members of NATO and NATO’s allies.

The St. Paul, MN. Woman-owned Small Business (WOSB) expects that these NSNs will assist its sales efforts in both NATO and non-NATO countries.

In October 2020, Clothier Design Source had announced here on Soldier Systems that they were producing the CCFC. The assignment of the NSNs were followed by the Company’s first substantial order for these Face Coverings in supplying AAFES; the Army Air Force Exchange Service with an initial order for 190,000 Units. 

If you have a large quantity for micro-purchase, P-Card, PO or RFQ please contact Clothier Design Source at  (651) 225-8025 or Laura@mlc-clothier.com.  The CCFC is also available through GSA Advantage Contract #GS-07F-032BA; MAS Schedule SIN 339113R and you can contact Cliff.Vaughan@armyproperty.com.

The Face Cover That's Protecting Patients From More Than Just Covid-19....

The disposable Suicide Prevention Face Covers are made with AAMI Level 3 non-woven fabric, are soft and comfortable with easy break earloops, offered in sizes S/M and L/XL and are authorized by the FDA under the EUA for use as a source control in general public or healthcare settings in accordance with CDC recommendations.

The Suicide Prevention Face Cover was developed with the MN Veteran Affairs Hospital after nurses were spending hours pulling out metal nose bridges and retying ear loops for their acute psych patients. Shawn Oglesby, the Facility Chief Supply Chain Officer at the St. Cloud, MN VA Hospital, said about working with CDS:

"I know we have all been struggling on trying to find an acceptable "No Harm" mask for our acute psych patients. St Cloud’s Mental Health department has been working closely with Clothier Design Source on developing such a mask.... After many iterations of different prototypes that CDS put together for us, we were finally able to develop a mask that meets the needs of our mental health patients."

On August 13, 2020, Neil Vigdor for the New York Times reported on an inmate at the Corrigan-Radgowski Correctional Center in Uncasville, Conn who hanged himself in a cell using a cloth mask. The article goes on to shed light on other correctional facility suicides by PPE masks:

"In Alabama, a county jail in Huntsville has faced criticism for confiscating masks and barring inmates from wearing them, the local news website AL.com reported. A spokesman for the Madison County sheriff told the website that inmates could harm themselves or others with the metal nose pieces on masks, and that the masks could be tied together to make ropes.

"You give them face masks (with) a nose piece — metal pieces in them — they’re going to eat them,” the spokesman, Brent Patterson, told the site. "They’re going to swallow them.""

For more information, to place an order, or for a free sample please call (651) 225-8025, or email laura@mlc-clothier.com.

What is a fit session and why are fit sessions important?

When creating your dream apparel line it is important to consider the intended body type of your brand. This is a crucial aspect to consider for your brand as it will determine your sizing and overall desired fit of your garments. With millions of brands out on the market suited to fit all body types, “standard clothing sizes” is a term of the past that now has a very vague meaning, if any at all! Every factory in the US and/or in other countries will have different size sets when referring to “standard clothing sizes” which can become very confusing should you ever decide to switch manufacturers. The purpose of a fit session is to assure that your garment fits your intended body type in the way you envision.

First, a sample, also known as a prototype, is created to model your design ideas and to finalize and prepare the pattern that will be used for production. Here at Clothier Design Source, we typically work through 2-4 rounds of sampling/prototyping to assure the fit and design is exactly what you are hoping for before creating a tech pack. Our goal is to simulate production in our prototype room! Furthermore, we also offer a 3D prototype option that not only provides true fit and style simulation through a custom made avatar, it also allows clients to quickly make changes to the style. We like to offer this option because it gives the opportunity to correct early fit or styling issues before actually cutting any cloth.

Next, it is equally important to find fit models who have similar body types and measurements of your intended customers. Fit sessions typically consist of the designer (you), the design manager, and fit models. Having the fit models try on your samples will help you assess if the fit, size, and design are suitable for your customers. We recommend fit models to report any discomfort or restriction of arm or leg movement while trying on the sample to guarantee the garment is comfortable as it is fitting. This is also an opportunity to see all of the elements of your garment such as trims, fabrics, cut, style, and design come together and come to life! Fit sessions are important because they allow you to visually see, and physically feel how your garments will look, fit, and feel to your intended customers. See something you don’t like in your fit session? Commenting on what you like, and what you would like to see revised will help you finalize your sample. Having fit models try on the sample garments will allow you to give feedback and suggest improvements that you would like for your following rounds of sampling.

Figuring out your desired sizing will help move your project along to the next step, pattern making. Patterns are diagrams that represent the 2D shapes that are eventually sewn together to create your garment. This process is essential for perfecting the fit, style and construction of your product. Once you are entirely, 100% satisfied with your sample, approve it and prepare to start manufacturing!

At Clothier Design Source we have the ability to create patterns from scratch to accomodate to all sizes. We specialize in men's, women's, children's, sewn accessories and even some pet! Contact us today for a free consult and quote 651-225-8025.

10 Abbreviations To Know In The Fashion Industry

Are you thinking about starting an apparel line, but aren’t from the fashion industry? It is easy to feel overwhelmed when you first enter the fashion world and learn all of the many different directions you can go in. You’ll quickly be introduced to the terminology you may have never heard of before along with the many frequently used abbreviations in the industry. Don’t worry, we have you covered! We’ve made a list of the top 10 abbreviations to know in the fashion industry. Understanding fashion terminology will not only help you feel more confident to take your next steps, but it’ll also let experts know you’ve done your research and know what you’re talking about! 

1. Bill Of Materials (BOM) - Can be found in your tech pack and contains very detailed information of every physical item necessary to produce your finished product for factories to be able to create your samples.

2. Chinese New Year (CNY) - If you are looking to manufacture overseas, it is important to consider holidays or events throughout the year which may cause production to slow down, or become unavailable. In China, factories tend to close for up to 8 weeks in January and February for the Chinese New Year. 

3. Country Of Origin (COO) - There are legal requirements in some countries which require the origin of a garment to be included in the labels. Some countries may even have size and position requirements for the label. 

4. Gauge (GG) - The amount of stitches a garment has per inch. GG can best be described as “a knitting machine’s finesse size.” The finer the yarn or needle is, the higher the gauge will be.

5. Lock Stitch (LS) - The most commonly used stitch with one Single Needle (SN) on a machine that used a top thread and bottom thread that get “locked” together. 

6. Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) - The minimum amount of garments a factory is able to produce. The MOQ could also be the minimum amount of fabric, trims, or labels you are required to purchase. 

7. Pre-Production Sample (PPS) or Top Of Production (TOP) - Once your first sample is created, there are usually a series of revisions made until your product is perfected and meets your vision. The PPS or TOP is the final, approved sample created that will be used as a reference when you are prepared to begin manufacturing. Since this is the final sample, it is important to assure all of the correct fabric, trims, and measurements are accurate. 

8. Seam Allowance (SA) - The amount of fabric between the stitch line and the edge of the fabric. The amount can vary anywhere from ¼ inch to several inches depending on the style and garment. 

9. Stitches Per Inch/ Stitches Per Centimeter (SPI/SPC) - Can be found in your tech pack and specifies the particular stitch style to use in addition to the amount of SPI/SPC.

10. Unit Of Measure (UOM) - The type of measurement utilized to manage various parts of your garments. Common UOM are: yards, meters, inches, centimeters. 

We truly want to make the manufacturing process more simple, and we want to help you turn your ideas into reality. Are you interested in learning more about the apparel industry? If so, we offer FREE WEBINARS on a monthly basis where we discuss a variety of topics such as tech packs, 3D prototyping, fabric sourcing, and so much more - Click here to sign up for our upcoming webinars! 

If you have an idea you want to turn into a reality, contact 651-225-8025 for a free phone consultation!

Starting a Clothing Line – Product Development

UNDERSTANDING APPAREL DEVELOPMENT COSTS

Let’s dive into the development costs that will go into your development and production budget.  It is crucial from the get-go to learn how to manage the cost of your garment. These 7 important factors will help you understand sample and production costs as well as your eventual pricing.

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 1: FABRICATION

Depending on the garment you’re making, 30-60% of your garment cost comes from the fabric chosen. When designing and planning pieces, the most important element is the fabric price point per yard. As an example, if it takes 2 yards per shirt and fabric is $8/yard, the cost for fabrics is $16 per shirt.

The trims are another important factor. Being aware of the price added by each buckle, bow, and binding placed on the garment will help you control costs from the start. For example, if you’re making a button-down shirt, you will need:

• Fabrics

• Buttons

• Interfacing

Each of these items will have a specific price per unit that will need to be added to the overall cost of each garment.

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 2: ADDITIONAL PRODUCT ELEMENTS

Fabric, cut, and sew are obvious items to include but don’t forget about things like care or size labels, hang tags, and poly bags. Also, think about the interior of your product. Is there interfacing or a stabilizer needed to hold shapes or a button placket? Make sure to include every tiny item into your costing!

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 3: CONSTRUCTION

Taking into account the finishes, specialty stitches, and amount of seams within a style will help to control your price point. There will be times that the more seams you add to a piece the price will increase (in labor cost), and sometimes the lack of a seam will cause a higher price (in fabric consumption). Adding in French seams, baby merrow stitches, 5 needle flat locks, all take specialty machines. These types of construction, also dictate where your line is produced.

When it comes to construction, it’s likely you’ll need to work with a professional pattern maker with experience in creating production-ready garments. The pattern maker should have access to work directly with the sample team to ensure that pattern specifications will be executed correctly. 

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 4: LOCATION

Fully lined garments with inner support construction and handwork will most certainly be produced in a different factory location than a 4-way stretch legging with 5-needle flatlock seaming. Identifying a factory that specializes in shirt making, for example, before you hire a technical designer or pattern maker is good business practice. It is not uncommon for sewing factories to not have every kind of machines and skilled labor. The more efficiently the factory can make a shirt, the better pricing they can offer your brand in production.

Alternately, you can partner with a full-service production and manufacturing house to help you source pattern makers and manufacturers. The price may not be higher than doing the legwork yourself since the business will have in-house employees and established relationships with specialty manufacturers. They may be able to offer some of the benefits of scale that you as new designer lack.

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 5: QUANTITY

The number of items that you are purchasing from a contractor will always affect the price of that garment. The higher the quantity, the less the price. Learning how to produce apparel with your intended aesthetic, fit, finishes, and market level, while simultaneously staying within your price point, are invaluable to a designer’s success.

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 6: PACKAGING

Are you selling directly to the consumer, through resale channels, or both? If you’re selling direct, you’ll need to account for packaging costs. Whether it be a hanger or polybag for an apparel item, custom boxes, tissue paper, ribbon, brand information inserts, or luxury mailing containers, there is a cost. There will be fewer packaging costs if you’re going through resale channels, but of course, the middle retailer will also take a cut of your profit margin.

DEVELOPMENT COSTS 7: SHIPPING

This industry is global, so your fabrics and trims could be coming from Japan, Italy, India, or any number of places. Without knowing the exact price of shipping, you can always take the total cost of your materials and multiply it by 10%. This estimate will work initially. When you get your final invoices from the vendors you can update the price per yard or piece with the actual amount, including shipping.

Once you understand these 7 items, you’ll be able to start putting together a cost for your sample – and look into cost-saving alternatives. Contact us to get started with product development TODAY!

Should I patent my clothing line? Your First 5 Questions Answered by lawyer Oliva Bedi

You are a clothing designer and you just came up with the coolest new shirt. It makes the

wearer smarter. Yep – a guaranteed increase of 25 IQ points. The shirt is also striking looking – it

has three distinct straps that serve no purpose in making you smarter, but it makes the shirt look

absolutely amazing. You want to protect your new US-made shirt from others copying it and several people have told you to patent it. What does that exactly mean?

1. There are two different types of patents in the U.S. – utility and design.

The United States Patent & Trademark Office (USPTO) grants (or rejects) utility and design patent applications (also “plant” applications and trademark registrations, but we won’t discuss here). A utility patent covers a new and useful process, machine, manufacture, or composition of matter. It protects the functional aspects of a useful invention. A design patent protects only aesthetic features of a useful invention. It cannot have functional aspects. Huh?

2. So what’s the difference between a utility and a design patent?

A utility patent protects the way an article is used and works. Your new shirt may be eligible for a utility patent because it is functional (it is capable of making you 25 points smarter, remember?). No shirt has ever done that before. This is new technology that serves a new and useful purpose.

A design patent protects the appearance of something – for aesthetic purposes, not for structural or utilitarian features. Your shirt could also be eligible for a design patent because the straps on your shirt do not serve a purpose. The straps play no role in the technology that makes you smarter and could have been left off altogether. Because the straps on your shirt are ornamental (and not functional), the shirt could be eligible to be protected by a design patent.

3. Which one should you choose?

Both types of patents give you a monopoly to exclude others from using, making, selling, offering for sale, or importing the shirt, but with differing patent terms. For a utility patent, that right to exclude is 20 years from the date the patent application is filed (there may be some adjustments). For a design patent, that protection is usually 14 years from the date the design patent is granted. However, it generally takes much longer for a utility patent to get through the

USPTO than a design patent. To be clear, once you are granted a patent, you don’t get the right to make the invention – you get the right to keep/stop others from making it and you can license others to make the invention for you if you don’t want to manufacture it yourself.

4. Why a Utility Patent?

Utility patents are a lot more expensive to get. In exchange for the monopoly, the inventor/patent owner must teach others how to create or duplicate the invention. The requirements are complex and require a lot of back and forth with the patent examiner. Here, your application must include specific descriptions of what other apparel, if any, is capable of making the wearer smarter, what is new and novel being taught here, how to make this shirt (hey – if you don’t want to share this new tech and it isn’t easy to reverse engineer, you should consider keeping it a trade secret… perhaps a blog post on trade secrets is next!), the best way to make this shirt, drawings of the shirt, and detailed claims (the metes and bounds of the invention) covering the shirt. A typical utility application can cost upwards of $25k, including USPTO costs and attorney fees.

An advantage of teaching this wearable tech and getting a utility patent would be that you could cover variations of this invention. If you can teach use of this tech in hats, pants, socks, and scarves, for example, you may not be limited to protecting your invention to just the shirt.

5. Why a Design Patent?

Design patents typically make it through the USPTO much faster than a utility patent; in fact, it could be years faster. It is also typically much cheaper. A design patent can be around $7k. This is because a design patent application does not include claims at the end of the patent or any written details describing how it is new vs. the what already exists or how to make the invention. A design application consists of just drawings.

On the flip side, the utility patent advantage is that you would be protected by any variations to the design patent you are granted. If a competitor changes aspects of your invention enough (altering the amount of straps, for example) so that an ordinary observer does not confuse your shirts, you would not win an infringement suit against her. It used to be that utility patents were thought to be “stronger” than design patents.

However, recent cases show that design patents have as many teeth as utility patents. The infamous Apple v. Samsung wars were fought over design patents and major apparel designers and clothing manufacturers are using design patents to protect themselves. Lululemon has multiple design patents on its sports bras and yoga pants and hasn’t been afraid to assert them.

Lulu has sued Calvin Klein, G-III and Under Armour; while they haven’t gone to trial and the settlements are confidential, Lulu’s aggressive enforcement supports the strength of design patents.

Now you know the basics of patenting your new smart shirt clothing line… now go put it on and decide which one, or both, to pursue!

Olivia Bedi

Partner

Neal, Gerber & Eisenberg

8 Things You Need to Consider Before You Manufacture Your Clothing Line

Before your clothes roll off the production line, there are some things that you need to know. I've compiled this eight-point checklist that will improve your chances of manufacturing success.

1. CREATE A TECH PACK

First, you need to create a tech pack — it's a roadmap for manufacturing your clothing line. This sheet will include things like measurements, materials, and sizes. You will send your tech pack to your manufacturer so they know how to make your product according to your exact specifications.

2. ORDER CARE LABELS

Care labels are really important. They include valuable information about your clothing — the size of your garment, the country of origin, washing instructions, etc. Here in the United States, care labeling is a legal requirement — the Federal Trade Commission has clear guidelines on what you should include on your label — so make sure you get it right.

Labels can take up to eight weeks to receive, so order them early on in the manufacturing process.

3. CREATE COLORWAYS

Colorway layouts serve as a blueprint for manufacturers when they make your clothes. You need to submit these to your manufacturer and have them approved.

Colorways tell manufacturers the exact colors to use when producing your garments.

4. TEST FABRICS

Test your fabrics before you send them to your manufacturer. Once you're happy with the results, order the amount you need. This can take between 2-6 weeks (4-10 weeks for custom orders), so you need to act fast.

5. TEST YOUR TRIMS

You also need to test your trims before you can manufacture clothes. Order times are similar to fabrics: 2-6 weeks or 4-10 weeks for custom orders.

6. APPROVE THE FINAL SAMPLE

This is the most important point on this list. The problem is, designers often forget to do this, which causes a lot of problems.

Once your manufacturer has sent you a final sample. You need to test and approve it. Check that it meets your requirements and brief. If it doesn't, you need to ask your manufacturer to make changes.

7. APPROVE THE FINAL PATTERNS

Once you have approved the final sample, you need to check the final patterns. Don't just focus on one size — you need to approve garments in every size you plan to sell. If there are problems, talk to your manufacturer.

8. CREATE A PURCHASE ORDER

By now, you should be good to go. But there is one final step: Creating a purchase order. Your purchase order is a document that lists your product quantities and agreed prices, and you will need to send this to your clothing manufacturer.

Follow the eight steps on this list if you want to streamline the apparel manufacturing process and get your garments to market in a quicker time frame. Ready to manufacture your clothing line? Download our checklist and find out!

Want to learn more about the clothing industry? The Apparel Academy provides you with the skills you need if you are trying to understand the business side of fashion. Click here to find out more.

Why we make in the USA & not China

When I started this journey of owning and operating a USA Clothing factory it all stemmed from a background of making clothing overseas. I had worked for a few companies as head of product development and had visited several factories in other countries. The conditions were horrid. 

Here's the thing: I knew they were only showing us the "good" factories. I know they were prepared for our visit and I know they were proud of these factories. With that being known, I can't imagine what it is like in the underbelly that was never exposed. 

These are the conditions I walked into: An armed guard at a gated factory that seemed more gated for the purpose of keeping people in than keeping people out. The workers lived at the factory in squalid conditions that many times we were not allowed to tour. The workers got 1 day off a year. Seriously, 1 day a year. That is what was told to me by one worker I spent some time with. They were fed in slop lines at the factory. They worked 14 hour days, 7 days a week. Their room and board came out of their pay, with little to none left after those expenses. 

One day while I was working in one of these factories (in a plush office removed from the production scene) the internet shut down. I asked what happened with the internet. I was told that they shut it down because the lunch bell had rang and they did not want their workers accessing the internet.  It was at that point, I truly understood these workers are basically prisoners without the free will to come and go as they please working in slave-like conditions. 

As I walked through the factory, the eyes of the workers were glazed and lifeless. I tried on several occasions to engage with them but I was met with fear, exhaustion and shells of humans. It truly is grim, as grim as you can imagine. Need I remind you, these are the factories we were allowed to see, the "good" ones. 

As I left one particular clothing factory we passed a famous factory called Foxconn who is know for making the iphone. My driver pointed to the worker housing and then pointed out the nets that were being hung below windows and balconies. These nets were the solution to stop workers from jumping and committing suicide. 

I am sharing this story because it is a huge part of why I started and operate a made in USA clothing factory. We are proud of what we do here. Proud of the wages we pay, proud of our skilled workers that also have home lives. We are proud of the life and light and exuberance in our building and proud to make in the USA. 

I am also sharing this story because I know many people will never have the same opportunity as me. I also understand, if you don't see it for yourself it is easy to push away the thought and ignore it.  I want people to think twice before buying that $10 t-shirt. Understand how that $10 shirt came to be. Someone somewhere has paid for that shirt. If we all cut down on our fast and cheap fashion consumption, we can better lives. If we are willing to own less and own better quality, we can change lives. If we are willing to ask companies #whomademyclothes and let them know we do care, we can change lives. All the power is in the consumer. That is how it will change. 

4 Reasons Why Production-Friendliness Matters

Design is a creative process. Partnering with designers gives us the opportunity to support their creative vision. As a cut-and-sew clothing manufacturer, our focus is helping those designers bring their brands to market in an efficient, cost-effective way. To that end, our company guarantees that any garment we develop is production-friendly, key to the success of small batch manufacturing.

Why does production-friendliness matter? We'd like to highlight four key reasons why any new piece has to work from both a creative and a production standpoint for brands who seek product consistency and a substantial profit margin.

1. PATTERN AND PROTOTYPES NEED TO BE REPEATABLE

Some brands may tailor to a specific clientele who buy unique, one-of-a-kind items. Most designers are not in this select group, and want to do a production run of a specific garment. In the development stage, it is essential to determine whether we can make several of the same garment at a later point in time.

If a design is too complicated, it may be challenging to implement quality controls that ensure consistency of the later product. This may be the essential difference between coming to us to get a sample of your garment, compared to a tailor. While we are also dedicated to creating a beautiful piece, we have the additional insight to recommend how it might be modified to ensure your buyers know what to expect.

2. QUALITY CONTROL FOR A FULL RUN

Another factor is the ability to ensure quality control, not only on a sample garment, but on a later production run. We accomplish this in various ways, such as pattern making, universal markings, drill holes, and templates. These tools tell the sewers precisely where to place specific details.

If the pattern is not sufficiently repeatable, quality control is a substantial challenge. Every detail is important, from the placement of your brand label to the guage of the needle used to stitch the seams. When two items that are supposed to be identical go to market with obvious flaws, it reflects poorly on your brand -- something we want to prevent.

3. TRIMS THAT ARE FUNCTIONAL AND EASY TO SOURCE

Often, the trims in a garment reflect a designer's personal style. They are therefore not interchangeable with just any other element; they can compose an essential part of the piece. At the same time, they must stand up to use. You must be able to source them when time comes for a full production run.

Part of our process is to closely analyze the trim, including snaps, zippers, buttons, and buckles, to confirm they are easy to order in bulk. The details that appear in the sample have to reflect what will go through the manufacturing process. They have to be durable, holding up to repeated washings and wearings by the final consumer.

4. DEVELOPING A COST-EFFECTIVE PRODUCT

In our work for brands, we are always thinking about the ultimate cost of production. This is front of mind as we analyze the trim and create the pattern. Often, we will work with the designer to break down the product if we sense it has become too complicated to be cost-effective.

Ultimately, we want our clients to have a product that's economically viable and consistent with their brand. To that end, we help them decide what's important in a design and what can be removed. The result is a strong partnership based on a shared vision of creating and selling a great textile product.

These are the kinds of perspectives we bring to our courses on apparel entrepreneurship, offered through The Apparel Academy.