Nothing really.
This label says 97% cotton/ 3% spandex. This is the content of the fibers. This could be for anything from a t-shirt to jeans. Below are 5 other key ingredients not listed on the label to get the fabric you want. This information should be listed on your technical design packet.

In order of importance:

1. Is it knit or woven? In most cases asking your self if it is stretchy or or not will help you with this question.
2. What type of knit or weave? For example a knit could be jersey or interlock.
3. What weight is the fabric? How much does it weigh per meter or yard squared?
4. What gauge or diameter are the yarns used when weaving or knitting the fabric?
5. Lastly, what finish was done to the fabric? For instance a softener or enzyme wash might be used to make a softer hand.

What have you learned about your fabric in your design process that has surprised you?

]]> http://clothierdesignsource.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=268 0 http://clothierdesignsource.com/blog/?p=241 http://clothierdesignsource.com/blog/?p=241#comments Fri, 01 Feb 2013 21:23:11 +0000 http://clothierdesignsource.com/blog/?p=241 Follow these 5 tips to reduce mistakes, increase profit & decrease development time.

1. When you order raw goods or finished goods– schedule in a follow up.  Do not assume if you place an order that it is being processed. Many times we have ordered raw goods and find out that it is not being processed.
2. Sending a good sample or picture is not enough for a manufacturer to produce the same product. If you have been in the business longer than 1 year you have already learned this lesson.
3. Sending a pattern, technical design packet and an approved prototype is the absolute best way to get a perfect product manufactured.
4. Approve, approve, approve. I cannot say this enough! If you are moving a label, changing a thread color, or lowering a neckline – have the manufacturer sample and then you approve.  What may seem obvious and simple to you can become a disaster when missed and bulk is shipped.
5. Lastly, have professional grade rules done. These are the calculations for several points of measure for each size. Basically make sure all the sizes fit correctly.

What other tips and secrets have you learned?

1st step -DESIGN-  is defining your concept. Your rough idea becomes a concrete sketch that can be made.

2nd step -PROTOTYPE- see your ideas come to life! Test the market, test the fit, test the function until perfected.

 3rd step – TECH DESIGN-  is all in the details. The type of stitch, zipper, thread etc… makes all the difference to the final quality.

4th step -MANUFACTURE- produce your products in the USA or overseas depending on your market demands and minimum order quantities.

What steps have you been missing? Or what steps are we missing?

The designers of CDS hard at work

Clothier Design Source is a group of garment experts and designers with extensive knowledge of the clothing industry. Please get to know the company by reading the press release below. 

1. It’s hard work. There is a process that you must go through before getting your end product.
2. Always approve a perfect sample before giving the go ahead to move into production.
3. Finding the right fabric is a huge challenge that will take time, research and learning.
4. Get a good pattern made. This is the shape that will be cut out to make your garment fit well.
5. Get a good tech pack made. This is the blue print needed for any manufacturer to construct your garment correctly.
6. Find a good manufacturer that understands your minimum needs and deadlines.
7. Find a manufacturer that has experience in your category of goods.
8. Get the item sketched before sampling. Sketching details as much as possible before sampling will save you money in the long run. Sampling is expensive.
9. The quality of information given to the manufacturer or developer will be the quality of product you receive back.
10. Work through the 4 steps of development in order to save time and money. See the 4 steps here!

What else have you learned about getting into the fashion industry?

Many people wonder why their products ship out with defects. How does this happen? Why does this happen? And what can you do to prevent it?

How do defects happen?

Simply put, something was overlooked. For example you send a drawing of a base layer shirt to a factory abroad and tell them to make it. You gave them sizing and fabric information but neglected to give them construction information. Now the shirt looks great but all the stitches are breaking and unraveling. This could be prevented with specifying to the factory what type of stitch & stitch count they needed to use for each area of the garment.

Why do defects happen?

We assume too much. We assume the factory knows what we have in our head as the end result and we assume the factory understands our level of quality standards. We assume the factory understands sizing, color, etc… We assume the fabric color won’t bleed and the buttons won’t fall off.  If you think of constructing a garment much like building a structure this will help. For instance, a building needs load bearing walls, a foundation and many more things that must meet code to ensure the building holds up. The codes are specified and inspected by a professional each step of the way. A good fitting pattern, appropriate trims, and correct construction methods are required to ensure the integrity of the garment much like building a structure.

How to prevent future defects?

1^st providing or proofing the pattern for the garment. The shapes and contours of each size must precisely match what is needed for the garment to fit correctly for its final function.

2^nd specifying ALL details required to assemble the pattern or cut pieces in the form of a tech pack or spec sheet.  Listing the types of machinery needed to join each component and how is essential to the garment holding up.

3^rd Sample, check, then sample and check some more. Not one thing should go into production without being approved of first. This includes labels, label placement, buttons, button placement,  trim breakage tests, neck tape, color , packaging and SO much more!

When ordering mass quantities of anything there is bound to be some fallout. The steps  can reduce that fallout to 1% or less of your total inventory. This is a massive amount of savings in the short-term and long term for your brand integrity.

Clothier Design Source is very passionate about this issue and is here to help in all ways described above. Please contact us if you need help in any of these areas. www.clothierdesignsource.com

Having a Spec Sheet and/or Tech Pack helps make the quality assurance process smoother and better. This is a document per garment specifying everything from stitches per inch, pantone colors, weight of fabric, points of measure, label placement etc… so the factory knows EXACTLY what you expect. This document eliminates many problems before they exist. Then, using this document to check pre-production samples and production is a clear way to be sure the factory is meeting the requirements. Many times it is not the factory that is poor but could be the quality of information going to the factory that is poor. Fix the informationand fix the quality problems.  Learn more about this step at http://www.clothierdesignsource.com/technical-design

The two big color trends we found were primary colors – red, blue, yellow – and black; black mixed with white and black mixed with brown.